Boarding to Siyang is called. It’s
early morning, and the bus station is filled. I have to push through
the crowd to reach the doorway where my bus is waiting. Everyone
is carrying red plastic bags filled with food to give— fruit,
peanuts, seeds. I am carrying my own plastic bag containing ten oranges
and ten bananas. A middle-aged Chinese woman stressed the importance
of bringing ten of each kind of fruit. I left ten pears at home,
but the bag is still heavy. I hear a few passengers say, laowai,
foreigner, as I walk down the aisle to my seat.
Four hours later, we pull into the bus station at
Siyang.. This place is much smaller than Zhenjiang , where I have
been living — more north and colder.
Through the bus window I see my student smiling at me, and I wave. It's the
Spring Festival Holiday, the celebration of the Chinese Lunar New Year, and
he has invited me to visit him. He and his father have come to receive me.
His father has a wide smile and a cowlick in the back of his hair. My student
walks ahead purposefully when I mention I need to buy a return ticket at the
station. We stand in line, and he takes out a pink 100 yuan bill.
"I can pay," I weakly insist.
"Ivy, I’ll pay. Let me show you around."
That's my student, Changjiang. His name means " Long River ” and
refers to the Yangtze, the longest river in China . Changjiang will
be seventeen next month. He's tall and thin. He has wispy, wavy hair
that falls into his face and an easy laugh. When he looks at me,
his eyebrows arch over his glasses, and he grins.
To go to their house, we ride in a “bread car,” a small
van. There are other passengers in the bread car, and we fly along
the road together. The driver stops every so often and calls out
for more passengers. More people get on with their bags of fruit.
The lane to their house is muddy—the van cannot go on that.
It's made of dirt, and has brick houses on either side. As we
walk, I see bales of hay, goats, some cows, chickens, and a donkey.
The mud clings to my sneakers. Changjiang has my book-bag on his
shoulders, and his father carries the fruit. When we arrive at his
house, his mother and grandmother come to the doorway and together
we go to the concrete courtyard. His grandmother is stooped over,
wears a blue apron.
"She can't understand putong hua (standard Mandarin) so maybe you
can't speak to her," Chanjiang says.
I can't tell if his grandmother can really see me. During my visit,
she wanders in and out of rooms, putting a handful of candies next
to us on the sofa, leaning over the table and tapping her foot, or
standing behind her grandsons examining them,
"My grandmother often does things with no result,” Changjiang
says.
We come to a room with a wooden table, a TV set, a DVD player and
a sofa. Here we will spend most of our time. The ceiling is very
high, and the walls have posters on them— famous Chinese TV
and movie stars, blue and green tinted landscapes. There are two
rooms off to either side, the room they all will sleep in, and the
room I will sleep in, alone. It is cold outside, and the door to
the courtyard remains open all day. We see our breath as we watch
DVD's putting our feet under a blanket as our toes slowly freeze.
We leave the room for meals. For dinner, we eat-corn porridge,
bread and vegetables; for breakfast, dumplings and glutinous sweet
dough balls in soup. We eat crabs, turtle, pork and vegetables for
lunch. After meals we take in a mouthful of warm water from a shared
cup, swish it around our mouths and spit it into the dirt off the
courtyard.
If I rest for a few seconds between bites of food, his mother points
to a bowl with her chopstick. "Ivy, chi, chi.”
"You can eat as you like," Changjiang says.
The first night, his mother introduces me to my room. There are
two plastic basins on the floor filled with warm water and two towels. "This
one is for washing your pigu (butt) and this one, your feet.” She
leaves. I don't touch the pigu basin, but I halfheartedly
rub the other towel over my feet. She comes back, knows I haven’t
washed properly. She kneels down, holds my feet, and washes them
thoroughly rubbing between my toes.
The bed is covered with a thick blanket. When I wake up, I am warm.
My head is entirely covered by the blanket and my coat, and a second
blanket covers my feet. I don't remember wrapping myself so warmly.
"Ivy?" It's Changjiang, outside the door.
"Yes?" I say.
"Wake up,” he says.
It snows today. We pass the day watching TV or movies. Neighbors
come by. The grandmother gives them handfuls of watermelon seeds.
An old man in a Russian fur hat visits, sits on the narrow wooden
bench by the doorway, and the grandmother sits next to him. The light
falls on the creases in their faces. I want to take a picture of
them, but I don't. A young girl also visits. She leans against Changjiang,
crowding him on a narrow bench. She brings a long, new firecracker
into the house. He pulls it from her and throws it into the yard.
The snow is coming down quickly. I laugh in surprise.
"Why did you do that?” I hit him lightly, and he laughs
too. We light firecrackers on New Year's Eve. We watch from the doorway
as the father lights them in the yard and runs off. We watch them
burn down and throw off light, banging the air, until one goes off
improperly, and the sound is unbelievable. "Tai jinjang,
too intense,” Changjiang says.
The next night, he borrows a pad and pen from his father. We talk
about words in Chinese and English, draw crude pictures to show each
other our meaning. Soon the page is covered with random drawings
and words at all angles. "Art" his brother says His
father tells a story, and Changjiang translates. "When I was
young, the other children in my neighborhood wanted to steal some
money. I just stood next to them and watched. I was afraid someone
would say I was guilty too."
Changjiang looks at me and laughs. "Oh, that's it." he
says.
"I thought there was more."
Later I eat lunch with an all-male party—three young cousins,
their father, Changjiang, his father and brother. They all have shots
of baijiu, clear rice wine. I alone have grape wine. Everyone
toasts each other. I am toasted several times and drink the weak
wine. Changjiang sits beside me, worriedly telling me I only
have to drink a little, only have to just touch my lips to the glass.
He has had several shots of baijiu.. He is ripping small holes
in the plastic table covering. After awhile he asks me if I'm full.
I nod, and he tells me I can just have a seat on the sofa. The men
stay at the table toasting each other, so I get a book to read. Later,
he asks to see the book, holds it in his hands, and asks me what
happens in the stories I read. He sits next to me on the couch and
carefully reads each word aloud on the book jacket. Floating with
the baijiu, he steadies himself by following the words with his finger.
I get my camera and hold it up to the table scene. He takes it, frames
his father in the camera screen and waits for him to laugh.
The day before I leave, I make a fortune-telling game out of a
square piece of paper. I must think of several “fortunes” to
hide under the folds. One that I write is, “You will marry
someone ten years older or younger than yourself.” And I write
nine more fortunes. When I am done, I tell Changjiang to pick a number.
He chooses the marriage fortune. I wrote it as a silly joke, but
when I read it out to him, we just look at each other. I am twenty-six
years old. I put the paper down. Later, I see his grandmother crumple
it in confusion and sweep it into the trash.
That night, Changjiang, his brother, and I watch "Total Recall".
The room is dark, and their parents have gone to bed. When the movie
is over, I go outside to brush my teeth and to use the outhouse.
I am amazed at the stars, which are plentiful and twinkling.
Changjiang and his brother come outside to look at them with me.
We stand next to each other.
“I've never seen stars so clearly,” I say.
After I say that, Changjiang and I look at each other.
"Maybe you can take a picture,” his brother says. I get my camera,
hold the screen up to the sky, but all I see is black. We also look at the airplanes.
They are coming from different directions, their lights flashing.
"You can wave to me when I leave for America . Maybe you even
saw me when I came to China ,” I say. I wonder if that could
happen.
The next day, I walk with the brothers on the road to the main
street. Their father stays behind but shouts several times with reminders.
Tell Ivy to send a message when she returns, things like that. We
walk awhile without speaking.
"Maybe we should talk," Changjiang says.
I tell him that sometimes "Silence is golden" like in
a movie theater. He tells me this is also a saying in Chinese. When
we get to the road, he tells his brother to go back home, and the
two of us board a mini-bus. When we have to move over to make room
for another man, my arm lands on Changjiang’s arm. For the
rest of the ride, we don’t move, and we hardly talk. I experience
something that I have experienced before, but rarely—I can
actually feel heat along the entire right side of my body—from
him. I don’t know if I’m imagining the heat.
“Are you okay?” he asks me.
The Siyang bus station has an extremely dirty bathroom. No one
closes the doors to the toilets, and the toilets don't flush. I squat
down, face a child opposite me. Both of our doors are open. When
I exit the bathroom, an attendant comes over, tells me the bus to
Zhenjiang is boarding early. My student comes on the bus to wait
with me. People rush to fill in the seats before the early departure.
Chianjiang and I wait together in silence.
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